缅甸流水账,五

马车得得地,一小段路,20分钟不到,就到了估计是Ava唯一的餐馆,Small River。这个名字取得好,因为Ava把江水分成了两道,一边大些,big river,一边小些,就是small river。餐馆在的位置,就在小一些的江的岸边,自然就叫做了small river。

有些时候,简单明了的名字比起花花草草的名字,听上去看上去都酷多了。

餐馆的菜很不错。是中餐的样式。我们从一入缅甸境内,就只吃缅餐,所谓入乡随俗。缅甸菜吃起来别有风味,味道也还好。一般就是我们点几个主菜,然后餐馆自然就会随主菜送上一套的小菜,林林总总,吃一顿饭,总能吃个十几个小碟。这一点,颇有些象是韩国菜。

这样的菜式,貌似丰盛,一开始给人的感觉是很丰富,但是吃过两三天之后,每天总是反反复复地对着这十几盘菜,貌似的丰盛之间,很快地就觉得有些疲了。这情景就好比上中国的许多网站,动不动就是拉下来恨不得有十几屏,密密麻麻几百个标题链接的首页,偶尔去去,是不错的,但是长久一去,就觉得烦了。

所以,small river的中餐,从几十种菜中,点了几盘我们想要的。要了瓶当地的冰凉啤酒,坐河边上,等菜上了,一看,简简单单的几样,都是自己想要的,这个感觉比起一溜十几盘未必自己想要的菜,实在是强了不少。

(听上去怎么感觉又是在说网站的内容设计?设计哲学,无所不在。或者说,职业病。)

一坐下,就来了一盘青芒果片。味道也还好,也就是盘青芒果片。不过,不知怎么,李宁对这个青芒果片热爱之极,一盘下去了后,她东张西望了半天,发现原来餐馆的院子里,就立着棵芒果树,上面累累垂垂,挂满了青芒果。这个发现的后果,就是餐馆的几个青涩小男侍应,在李宁的媚眼和笑容之下,被差遣去摘树上的芒果,足有3回。

我坐边上,正满怀兴趣地等着看李宁不知道要用什么手段去弄第5个芒果,不经意间,手往铺了白布的桌上轻轻一扶,就觉得手掌上犹如被人割了一刀一般,忍不住痛叫了一声,再一看,忽然已经肿起了个大包。

估计是当地一个剧毒的小虫。

我正在那儿龇牙咧嘴地痛得直抽气,一边餐馆的小男侍应刚满足了李宁的芒果要求,现在又手忙脚乱地去给我也不知道对于毒虫叮咬是否管用的创可贴,一边杨蕾一脸郑重地看着我说,“你刚才是不是把那只举着两个爪子的小虫给杀了?”

我们刚坐下时候,白布的桌上,在我面前,爬过了一只估计只有半个米粒大小的小虫,但是,这小虫头前,举着两个大爪,爪子基本和身子同等长短,一副威风凛凛的模样。看到这么个怪异小虫,我招呼杨蕾看了。她说,“这虫肯定很毒,你别碰她,让它爬过去吧。”

我说,“好吧好吧。”然后杨蕾扭过头去和李宁说话,我看着这个小虫,还在那儿慢悠悠地爬着。趁杨蕾没注意,我拿过酒杯,夸支一声,很满意地就把这正得意扬扬巡游的小虫给碾成了片小青泥。

“对啊。”我只好招认。

“肯定是小虫的老婆来报仇来了,谁让你把它老公给杀了。人家复仇来了。”杨蕾很严肃认真地点头,仿佛小虫为夫报仇本来就是件再正常不过的事,而我这儿简直就是活该。

“切,这个逻辑明显不对。”我一边继续在那儿抽气,一边不忿地想,“你怎么知道我刚才杀的是公的,而不是母的?为什么一定是为夫报仇,而不是公的来为母的复仇?”

我当时的逻辑思维能力在剧痛刺激下,肯定也受损了。

12点到的餐馆,河岸边,凉风中,吃好了饭,灌下了几瓶啤酒,我们都躺在躺椅上,一不小心,一看居然就已经是3点钟。3个钟头的逍遥时光。尽管餐馆里,唯一的另一桌客人,墨西哥来的,叽叽歪歪地和导游用西班牙语讨论了一个钟头的委内瑞拉和缅甸的民主和政治体制,都是一副大惊小怪的模样。有些烦。除此之外,small river的其它一切,都太适合在缅甸中午时候,躲过炽热阳光,好好地出出神。

(攻略:Small River的厕所非常漂亮。大力推荐。非常干净。都是单个用竹子扎成的单独房间,阳光从竹席里透过来,在多喝了几瓶啤酒因此得去多次厕所的情况下,每次如厕,都让人心旷神怡。)

Small River餐馆

我的光荣负伤的手,已经上了杨蕾包里许多种药剂中的某一种

上菜了

可怜的芒果

吃饱喝足

——————————–

出了餐馆,上了马车,李宁依旧坐在了马车夫身边,继续她招摇过市的风光生活。Ava最著名的寺庙是Bagaya Kyaung,虽然也只是19世纪的建筑,但是木头的建筑能够经过两百年左右的兵火,还能屹立,也就是不易了。

缅甸的游客,在五月的时候,是如此之少,以至于一天的路途之中,我们只见到了另一组的游客,一组法国游客。而注意到这一组游客,纯粹也是因为这一帮家伙,秉承法国人的名声,果然是比较狡猾。

我们半途之上,见到一个看上去还不错的佛塔废墟。李宁和杨蕾,这两个女人,当然是欢天喜地立刻要求下车,而且,我这个全程陪同的摄像工人,当然也得陪同。

正下车,对面过来了几辆马车,马车后面跟了3辆自行车。马车一停,下来了5,6个法国游客。后面跟了三辆自行车,原来是几个卖旅游纪念品的当地小贩,一个大妈,两个小女孩,大概是Ava所有的卖纪念品的小贩了,明显是已经跟了他们一路。

那几个法国人匆匆忙忙地下车,匆匆忙忙地进了寺庙,匆匆忙忙地转了一圈,匆匆忙忙地就出来了,上了马车,走了。

我正疑惑呢,想,这几个家伙,他们在干嘛?不像在欣赏这个遗址啊。一转头,眼前,鼻子底下,忽然间多出了一张满面笑容的脸,举着手里的石头项链,凑在我面前,说,“one dollar?”

“妈的,”我恍然大悟,“这几个法国佬,停车就是把这几个小贩甩给我们了啊!”

狡猾狡猾,我心里暗暗赞叹。抬头一看,杨蕾和李宁也各自都被一个小贩盯上了。然后我们刚才看到的情景,就在我们这儿重现了。一路之上,马车在前面走,后面不弃不离地跟着3个骑着自行车的小贩,这一个大妈两个小女孩。

他们很开心地很满面笑容地举着手里的项链,骑着车,就跟在马车后头,“One dollar?”

我们也很开心地很满面笑容地坐在晃晃悠悠的马车里,摇着头,“No one dollar.”

这么一个对话,我们都很开心地一直进行到了Bagaya Kyaung,我们进了寺庙为止。

途中的寺庙遗址

Bagaya Kyaung庙中

————

因为Ava的悠闲时光,从Ava出来时候,我们一看,时间已经是5点半了。日落时分,一般是6点15。从Ava到乌本桥所在的Amarapura,差不多也就是45分钟的路程。

我看了看出租车司机,“能赶到吗?”

司机说,“可能赶不到,路上的情况也不好说,而且今天天气刚才下了点雨,路上可能不好开,我从来没有这么晚才从Ava出发,一般我们都是四点半就出发了。。。”

“另加五美元,如果你能在6点15前到。”我说。

结果驱动的激励体制一般来说是最有效的体制。这一辆82年出产但是在缅甸居然价值1万美元的丰田车,立刻就开始加速了。当然,我们是在佛教国家,不能杀生,所以一路之上,既没有撞到一身黄袍的和尚们,也没有碾到偶尔出现的村民,顶多也就是吓到了几只路边的野狗。

赶到Amarapura,抬头一看,满天晚霞中,夕阳至少还有两竿高才到地平线下。

乌本桥据说是当年Amarapura的地方官,在国王把王宫从Ava搬到曼德勒的时候,取用了废弃的Ava王宫的柚木,搭起了这个用984根柚木柱子建起的1.2公里的桥。

很昂贵的一个木桥。也确实很美。

落日余晖中,河两岸的村民从桥上走过,回各自的家。黄袍的和尚在桥上走过,也许是回他们的寺院,也许只是在这个咯吱咯吱响着的木桥上走走,他们也一样有自己的快乐。

我们三一上了桥,就各自走着自己的脚步。

李宁一会儿就走在了最前头,东南西北地到处拍照,兴高采烈地见谁就哈哈地笑,打招呼,尤其是那些年轻小孩和年轻和尚们。

杨蕾在最后面走着,走一会儿,就一个人站住了,靠着根常年风雨阳光下已经是漆黑的木柱子,看着远处水光之上的落日,满天红霞里,想着她的心思。也许,只是在叹息。

我站在桥中央,手插在裤袋里,脖子上挂着个巨大的相机,周围是来来往往的当地人,周围也是我喜欢的风景。我忽然发现,我很轻松地站着,看着,轻松地想着。

一直以来,周围越是喧闹和快乐的地方,越是美丽的风景,抬头四望的那一刹那,心里忽然间充满的,总是一个人在旷野中的寂寞。

那天,那个时候,在乌本桥上,我只是很轻松地看着,很轻松地转动着脑子里来来去去的这许多轻盈的念头。一点不沉重。一切都这么轻松。

Maybe I have finally calmed down?

谁知道。不过,鼠目寸光的家伙说的很对,乌本桥的日落,不能错过。叹息也罢,轻松也罢,这条柚木的长桥,不能错过。

落日,和一条我们的小船一样的江面上唯一的另一条小船

桥下洗车的小孩

桥上

桥下,小船上

日落

[@more@]

缅甸流水账,五》上有 22 条评论

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