缅甸流水账,曼德勒最后一夜

和老太太还有她媳妇儿吃完饭,老太太坚持要送我们回住的旅馆。

(攻略:住的是Mandalay View Inn,离曼德勒山不远,挺干净,也不贵,一晚上30多一点美元。房间里的柚木雕虽然不算太精细,但是也还挺有意思。李宁和杨蕾住的房间,恰巧还是该旅馆的样板房,属于有些穆斯林式的屋内拱柱那种,还颇有些意思。)

于是大伙儿就又一次爬进了老太太的敞篷吉普,轰隆隆地开回了旅馆。

晚上的节目早就预备好了,去看缅甸著名的木偶戏。George Scott的The Burman, His Life and Notions,这本大约100年前写的关于缅甸的经典,已经很仔细地描述过当地流行的木偶戏。这是缅甸人夜晚最主要的娱乐项目之一。

木偶是提线木偶。操作的方式和福建泉州的提线木偶基本一样,也是左手拿着个小木杆,垂下几根控制的线,而右手则直接提了几根线,这样两手相互配合,就能把个木偶给玩儿转。

曼德勒唯一一家的木偶剧院就在Mandalay View Inn的旁边。从旅馆出来,晃悠过去,不过半分钟。我和李宁杨蕾,早早就到了,因此也就拿到了第一排的票。进了剧院,才发现原来第一排的前面,是一个小桌,能坐得舒服的唯一办法,就是把脚给翘到桌上。

虽然有些对于台上表演的木偶演员们有些不敬,不过翘在桌上,不但舒服,而且还能避开桌子下面嗡嗡作响的蚊子。

木偶戏前后大约一个多小时。节目的安排非常紧凑。

不过杨蕾估计是职业病犯了,节目一路下来,她就一路赞叹这些节目的想象力有多丰富,色彩多好,后台的那个操作的70来岁的曾经拿过缅甸第一演员的老头,动作有多纯熟,场景的切换有多好。

尤其到了最后,估计是全世界的人民都喜欢庸俗化的东西,一个木偶表演的估计是宫里的太监,丑角的性质,一番劲歌快舞之后,忽然间做了个翻身的动作,木偶身上那个缅甸男人都得穿的笼衣翻了下来,立刻就露出了下面的光屁股 – 而且,为了逼真,这木偶下身的关键部位,雕刻得无比细致。

当然,庸俗的东西其实是雅俗共赏的。这一动作下来,小剧院总共就这么十几号观众,大伙儿全都哈哈得笑,尤其边上的杨蕾,哈哈笑得差点把眼镜都笑得掉下来了。

如果去每天晚上的木偶戏,也是个不容错过的节目。

曼德勒的最后一夜,第二天的一早,就要去蒲甘,缅甸这一次旅行最重要的点。我要去看这荒草中几千座的佛塔废墟。

杨蕾也早就一路叹息了好几十回。这一路的叹息,练习得这么淋漓尽致了,以至于我躺在旅馆的床上,想,明天蒲甘的日落,还真得对得起杨蕾这一路酝酿下来的感情。

(木偶戏的视频)

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缅甸流水账,曼德勒最后一夜》上有 9 条评论

  1. Love your story with beautiful photographs… I was in Myanmar last year for about 3 months, travelling alone, just with my own bag… but I’m not a good story teller, not even a photographer. I just enjoyed the simple and happy life there. Anyway I’m deeply in memory when seeing ur story… u can visit my blog on which short stories about my Myanmar life is written…bwangel.blog.sohu.com… see if there’s something we could share… for memory.

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