成都到丽江,6/12-6/13

(到了乡城,总算有CDMA信号,可以上网了。6/14)

6/12

昨晚一夜没睡好。早上起来,一看周围的所有人都是一副垂头丧气的样子,原来昨晚睡好的就根本没有。不知道什么原因,也许是因为雅江的海拔将近2700米,已经算是高原。

杨蕾开了两天的山路,信心倍增,一出门就要求开车。从路口开始的第一段路,就是一路的山路。天阴沉得很,一上了山里,雾气腾地上来,偶尔还下些小雨。山路也是一样的坑坑洼洼,比起昨天的路况,没有一点的改善。

尤其比较挑战人的是,一上了山,前面鱼贯出去,一列的军车。前面的向导车超了一辆又一辆,后面我们的车,也是一步不拉地紧跟着。

转过一个山坳,云雾消散,美景忽然间就跳到面前。再转过一个山坳,忽然间又是云雾之中,下着小雨。尤其是在通过折多山(还是折什么山,忘了),海拔带越是4700米,是通过的最高的山口。大伙儿都感觉到了空气的稀薄,稍微跑几步,就觉得气喘。

过了山口,云开雾散,空气的稀薄也让天空的蓝色显得特别纯净些。一座座的青绿的大山,大山间一条蜿蜒的盘山公路,公路上就我们这一行5辆车。

有些景色用照片或者文字形容起来,都很苍白。

中午在一条小河边,一个小餐馆里吃了顿据说是高山雪水里才能养大的高山雪鱼。味道还不错,肉很嫩,但是刺挺多。

继续行程,下午两点多钟,进入了海子山自然保护区。海子山区内,望出去,远远的大山也罢,周围的高原也罢,到处都是岩石。仿佛我们忽然间进入了个史前的废墟,又像是某个被废弃的采石场。只是这个采石场是如此巨大,4个小时左右,周围总是一样的巨石和石砾。

可能是刚下过雨,路边的,到处的岩石,巨大的和小的。雨后留下的许多小水池。偶尔有些时候,天空的蓝色倒映在水面上,在巨石和一些无名的高原小花间,还颇有些温馨感觉,而不是沿途过来总是有那种蛮荒一片而我们是仅存的幸存者的苍凉感。

稻城。只是个小小的城镇。昨天没睡好,所以Benson过来帮我们开了会儿车。杨蕾立刻就开始打听同行各位的八卦故事。Benson说,稻城边上有片小树林,领队之一的Matthew就在那片小树林里头和当地的一个藏族女孩有过一个艳遇。稻城,树林,藏族女孩,艳遇,这么多有刺激性的词,放在一块,立刻就让杨蕾在接下来的旅程之中,每逢休息之处,第一件事儿,就是使用各个击破的战术,向各个人打探其他人的艳遇故事。

一女人,这么关心别人的艳遇故事,这是什么心理?

晚上终于到了住的地方。海拔3700米高度的一个小温泉旅馆,叫做杜鹃谷温泉旅馆。还可以。晚上时候,拿着个IPOD和个小叶Nicky送的便携音响,两瓶啤酒,在露天的温泉池子里,周围是一片的大山,头顶是漆黑的天,可惜看不到星星。

温泉池里泡得热了,就到边上的温水小游泳池里游游,喝口啤酒,抬头看看天,是难得的奢侈。

住的地方,手机没有信号。

山路上

海拔四千7百米

在路上

6/13

早上起来,peter的太太Angie有挺严重的高山反应,她就不和我们去亚丁了。

例行的,一开始的车,都是由杨蕾先开。大约两个小时,到了亚丁的景区。亚丁的海拔大约是4200米,很高的高度。其实西藏大多数的地方,海拔也就是这样。

风景很美,却不知道怎么形容。因为没有个特别让人忘不了的特点。美,却没有什么特点。好像也不是什么好事儿。

骑马进去大约有半个小时,右边是个雪山(忘了名字了,哪天补上),当地人说是观音菩萨。亚丁有三座雪山,分别是观音,文殊和金刚的化身。

到了第一个休息处,和Peter,Anne,Olympia,还有杨蕾,几个人一起爬了个1.5公里左右的小山,去看个小小的海子。那个海子正对着观音化身的雪山。海子不错。不过,千辛万苦地在海拔4000多米的地方爬了一公里多山路,累得大伙儿眼都直了,到了一看,杨蕾说,“这整个就是九寨沟的熊猫海加上丽江的玉龙雪山嘛。不好玩。”

这两地方都被她归并到了徒有虚名的队列。两个徒有虚名的并在了一起,虽然说略有改善,可也未必能有多大的改观。

继续骑马往前,去洛河农场。这一段可就长了,单程就要2个小时,来回将近4个小时。杨蕾骑了匹小骡子,我骑的是一匹十几岁的老马,走两步就要喘口气那种,而且据跟在我后面的杨蕾说,这老马一路下来,边走边拉,能有七八回,整个一老油条,好吃懒做的典型。

还是那样,景色很好,但是想不起来有什么印象深刻的。还不如来的时候,在山路上,俯视亚丁小村的景色,让人印象深刻。

回到了停车场,累坏了。正要出发,Peter非常慌乱地跑到了我们的车前,说,Angie,他老婆,高原反应非常剧烈,刚才在旅馆里失去知觉,现在在香格里拉乡卫生院急救。他飞车赶去,我们慢些开,到医院会合。

到了医院,大伙儿都在那儿。Angie的情况已经好转,刚进院的时候,她的血液含氧量只有16,而据说一般人血液含氧量到了80以下,就已经算是严重高山反应,需要输氧了。急救之后,现在她的含氧量到了60。

边上杨蕾也不行了。头疼,恶心,有一点低烧,测了下血液,含氧量89。安全起见,在医院里也给她输了一袋氧。

我也有些头疼,但是估计是疲劳的,外加刚才又开了一个多小时的山路,累得。

回到住地,大伙儿心情都有些不好。杨蕾不能吃饭,径直回去睡了。10点不到,我也困极了,睡了。

一早醒来,看到杨蕾,说是一晚上都睡得很好,已经恢复了,活蹦乱跳地又在要求要开第一手的车。

Angie的情况却不太好。Peter只能取消接下来的旅程,医院里要了个救护车,带了两个医护,直接到昆明,然后飞回香港。

我们5辆车,继续这个On the Road Shangrila,虽然我们的领队和组织者已经退出了。

接下来的海拔开始低些,而且,该有高原反应的都已经有过了,应该没什么事儿了。不过,Peter和Angie的退出,提醒了大伙儿,这趟旅行,再怎么计划周到,它无论如何还是有些探险的成分,我们所在的,还是很荒芜的中国的Outback。

继续。

(网速很慢。不多发照片了)


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