缅甸流水账15,缅甸的最后印象,从蒲甘到仰光

(说是要写完它,就趁着对缅甸还留着些印象时候,写下来,权当留个记录。人的记忆并不是网络的存储,不是想要从某个片断回放它就能回放的。会失真,也会褪色。)

5日晚上回到酒店,一打开门,就小吃了一惊。酒店的服务员居然把我的床,很整齐地用酒店里到处落满的各色花瓣,铺了个花床。那图案怎么看都象是专门为度蜜月的人设计的。我心想,妈的这不是刺激我吗。正想呢,隔壁就听得李宁和杨蕾在那儿大呼小叫地,过去一看,她们的两张床上也铺满了花。两个女人开心得恨不得立刻就要到花床上打滚,不过又怕上床把花的图案给糟蹋了那么一副矛盾模样。

我得说,一个人,躺在张铺满花的大床上睡,比较容易受刺激,睡眠质量比较低。

(我的大花床)

5月6日,清早,趁着太阳还没有开始发挥力量,出了门,租了自行车,最后一次地转转蒲甘的佛塔们。有些地方,就像是家门口的小店,会一遍遍地回头。有些地方,尽管你心里知道,它一定会是你一生中所去过的最美好的几个或者几十个地方,而同时,极大的可能是你一辈子不会回头再来。比如蒲甘。

天还早,去了几个佛塔的废墟,连大门都还没开。一个17,8岁的小伙子摆了个摊子,卖些看上去品质挺低劣的艺术品,诸如布画之类。虽然就要离开蒲甘了,大伙儿的心情却都还不错。这么不错的心情下,有一搭没一搭地讨价还价的后果,就是买了一堆的画,似乎回来两个多月了我还没有把它们的包装解开来。

骑了一个多小时的车,回到酒店,吃了早饭,就准备收拾行李准备退房。李宁开始特忙碌地把房间貌似可以拿走做纪念品的小杂件,全搜罗了。杨蕾一开始还做出貌似矜持状,站边上看着李宁龙卷风般扫过一圈,等到她回过神来,已经只剩下了酒店的笔记本。

从酒店出来的小路上,李宁一边频频回头,一边恶狠狠地说,“我度蜜月的时候再来。”

我猜她也是给那张花床给刺激的。

晨起的自行车

在路上

bagan hotel

佛塔里

从酒店到了蒲甘的机场,换了登机卡,进了候机厅,坐了一会儿,忽然刷地一声,蒲甘机场,全缅甸号称最漂亮的游客最多的机场,居然停电了。一干人等,大伙儿全憋在个巨热无比而且很有些漆黑的候机厅里,一边心里痛骂,一边都有些担心,不知道这停电的机场,飞机还能不能起飞。

当然,我们是低估了缅甸人民的能力。有限的资源情况下,才知道优先级的重要。有限的电力下,飞行指挥塔明显是没有受影响的。简直应该请缅甸的电力调配局,给刚融完资的互联网公司上一课,让大伙儿知道资源的稀缺和可贵,和如何设定优先级。

仰光住的酒店,是the Strand hotel,仰光最好的酒店,和新加坡的 the Ruffles齐名的殖民地时期的酒店,东南亚最著名的3个酒店之一。酒店里几乎住过当年大英帝国在缅甸的所有高级官员和著名的旅行者,比如写过1984和animal farm的George Orwell。就算在今天,仰光的the Strand Hotel和新加坡的the Ruffles,在价格上,也是基本持平的。

按照我旅行开始到结束,从低往高地住旅店的原则,仰光也只有一个the Strand可以住了。因为其它的酒店都很糟糕。

The Strand确实很舒服。房间里全是柚木的地板和家具,光可鉴人。极高的天花板。有空调,不过为了殖民地情调,一个老式的木电风扇在头顶慢悠悠地转着。床,桌椅,摆设的花和水果,都很舒服。缅甸的最后一个夜晚,是很舒服的一个夜晚。何况,还有这个每个房间的所谓24小时的管家服务。

李宁和杨蕾的房间的管家,是一个20出头的男孩,很帅,很高,英文也说得很不错,据说是大学毕业了。李宁的这个得意劲,简直就要从心里直冒出来。估计她目前为止还没有过这么一个漂亮男人可以24小时地在面前颐指气使过。

尤其好玩儿的是,男孩的父亲,就在我们早上刚离开的蒲甘的Bagan Hotel工作。

这样的巧合,李宁和杨蕾这两个女人,简直就要受不了了。

冲了个凉,去吃晚饭。找了件有领的T shirt穿上。一开门,就见她们两也穿得挺有模有样地,而杨蕾居然也难得地略施粉黛了。酒店里的餐馆不错,意大利餐做得像模像样。整个餐厅,除了过去几桌的四个大概是师奶们自己出来旅游的日本女人,就是我们一桌。

吃了饭,喝了一瓶的冰镇的澳洲白葡萄酒,味儿还不错。我们都意犹未尽。我们的两个房间,打开后门,正好就是酒店二楼的一个大阳台,正对着仰光的河边大道。这个酒店似乎并没有几个客人,整个的二楼,也许也就是我们两个房间。我们从房间里各自拖出了沉重却极舒服地铺了软垫的柚木椅子,在阳台的边上坐下。

仰光不是一个不夜城。9点过后,除了眼前的河边大道上的一些路灯,所有的灯光都灭了。凉风吹过。没有蚊子。我又要了一瓶白葡萄酒,让李宁的小帅男管家拿了个冰桶,搁在里头。三个冰镇过的酒杯。

然后我们三聊了一夜的话,从9点到夜里3点各自回屋睡觉,喝光了酒店里所有的似乎只有2瓶的白葡萄酒储存,外加一瓶红酒,似乎还有两三瓶的啤酒。

阳台下面,缅甸的交通警时不时地拦下一辆出租车,敲诈勒索。阳台上面,我们拿着我们的数码相机当作录音机,录着些只有在个很陌生很不同的地方而且喝了不少的酒后才会说的话。不记得说了什么了。不过,我知道,我们都很快乐。

存在也好,虚无也好,人生的意义也好,登上珠峰也好,在泥里打滚也好,我想要的就是快乐。缅甸的8天,是极快乐的一次旅行。

(完)

仰光街头,黄昏

The Strand的管家,右边的是李宁和杨蕾的

the Strand的房间

我的房间里,介绍the Strand的一本书

我的房间里,自拍的,陶醉一把这么舒服的柚木地板

夜里,露台上


第二天一早,露台上

露台上看

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  1. 去过印尼的巴厘岛,缅甸还没去过呢,风情有些相似,不过缅甸佛教的韵味更多一些吧,看样子貌似很好玩的。赶明儿去。。。

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