my balls are cold, and the hallucination

12点,站在富士山的峰顶,海拔3770米。往下看,一片厚厚的白雪盖住了整个山峰,只有刚才爬上峰顶的一小条,没有被雪盖住。黑色的,犬牙交错的是凝固后的火山熔岩。往上爬着的时候,手脚并用,倒还安全。下山却看着挺危险。气温在5度左右,雪在融化,如果靴底一滑,在这黑色的尖刀般的岩石上摔一跤,效果估计和刮肉的钉板没什么两样。

从早上4点出发,铃木开车,带着我和Marc,从东京两个小时,到了富士山的2500米的第五站。6点45分开始登山。富士山要到7月1日才正式开山,接待登山客。6月底正是东京下雨的季节。我们本来做好了在冰雨和寒风里登山的准备。我们的运气非常好。阳光灿烂,气温在第五站有20度出头。极好的天气。山上没什么人。一路轻松地爬着,直到最后的300米左右,稍有些困难。铃木到了最后两百米不到的地方,崴了脚,只好站在那儿,看着我们爬过最后那一片黑色火山岩。

山顶是一个巨大的火山口。两百多年前,富士山最近的一次爆发。这个活火山的火山口,依稀带些黄色。山口的坡壁很陡。却有一道S型的滑板滑过的痕迹,但到了坡壁的半道却止住了。想来是滑板的人到了那,脚底一软,再没勇气往下滑了。

站在山顶,我和Marc商量了下,觉得还是从雪上走下去比较安全。不过,天暖,雪化,雪水很滑。我刚跨出两步,哧溜一声,就一屁股坐在了雪地上。一路上来,我们都随意穿着牛仔裤。不防水。这一屁股坐下,顿时觉得屁股上一阵冰凉,透彻全身。

Marc在前面,已经滑了几跤。他干脆一屁股坐在雪上,直接往下滑。

我在上面看着,想,这主意不错。不过,他穿的也是牛仔裤。看着他转眼透湿,我心想,这我可不奉陪。我的包里揣了条Gortex的滑雪裤,一路上来没用上,最后下山倒是派上了用场。我一边把滑雪裤换上,一边看着Marc极开心而且极冰冷地一路叫着滑了下去,转眼就到了铃木等我们的位置。铃木立刻也一屁股坐到了雪上,和Marc一起大叫着往下滑。两个冰冷湿裤男,我摇了摇头,想。换好了裤子,我也一屁股坐下,滑了下去。

多刺激的一个滑行!眼前雪花被我的靴子踹着飞溅出去,速度飞快,时不时拿手肘或者靴子勉强控制下速度和方向,一片空旷陡峭的雪坡,只有我们几个人,在雪上像过山车般地滑下去。只有像富士山这样有圆滑形状的山,才能这样地滑下去。爬上来最后一个多小时的一段路,下去只用了5分钟。

在雪将要变成黑火山灰的一段,我追上了Marc,然后,追上了铃木。

他坐在雪地上,裤子全湿透了,正在尖叫,“My balls are cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

他听上去极其快乐,不过。

而我大概有几年没有这么叫和笑过了。

视频: 富士山滑下

———————————-

登完富士山的第二天,几个人一起去东京的国立能乐馆看了能剧,“鹰姬。”

一个老人在一口井边守了50年。井里的水,喝了,能让人返老还童。一个年轻的波斯王子找到了这口井。他也想喝到井中的水。井的守护者,是鹰姬。沉默的守护神灵。王子和老人的打斗。鹰姬和王子的打斗。她施了魔法,让波斯王子昏睡了过去。而井中水这时涌出。老人和年轻的波斯王子都没有喝到井中水。老人继续无结果地守候。王子离去,找新的事去了。

整部剧,是有趣的一个组合。能剧自身已有1000多年的历史。这部剧的剧本却是100年前剧作家叶芝根据爱尔兰传说写的。而整剧的音乐和设置,都是古老能剧的结构和设计。三个表演者,也突破了传统能剧,用了三种不同的表演方式。能剧(老人),现代舞(王子),芭蕾(鹰姬)。三个表演者也都是各自领域的最顶尖人物。

表演者身上的戏服,夺目且珍贵,都有三百多年的历史了。三种表演方式的结合和冲突,而背景是能剧独有的歌唱和音乐,最终的效果,既非爱尔兰古老传说,也未必全是能剧,也超乎舞蹈。奇异,难忘。

这效果几乎有催眠的幻觉作用。

那天夜里,也许是登山的疲劳,外加这奇异的鹰姬,在酒店里,半夜我迷迷糊糊地醒来,恍惚间,床前,似乎正在进行着一场能剧演出。最左边,是黑色的伏着的鹰姬。中间的两个黑影,是老人和波斯王子。他们后面,是一个越来越明亮越来越大的三维蓝色灯球,转动着。

足足有30秒,我才缓过神来。最左边的是桌子,中间的是两把椅子,而转动着的三维蓝球,是房间里的增湿器的蓝色显示屏。

那是很迷人的30秒的精彩演出。

—————

从明治神宫的牌楼下走过,看着道路两边立着的石灯座,汉唐的形制风格,忽然想起,如果中国没有经历过蒙古人的元朝和满人的清朝,两次彻底的游牧文化和审美观对中国文化的大冲击和清洗,外加这60年来的更彻底的破坏,中国也许看上去会更像是一个有古老传统的国家,而非现在的暴发户模样。




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my balls are cold, and the hallucination》上有 68 条评论

  1. 抱歉,这个视频正在复查中,暂时不能播放。原因可能是:
    1.这个视频被其他用户投诉或举报了。
    2.这个视频含有敏感或严重争议的内容。

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